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A board game box is a two-piece rigid set-up box: a base and a full or deep lid, both made from thick greyboard wrapped in printed paper. Inside, a tray or set of card dividers holds the folded board, cards, tokens and dice so the game packs away the same way each time. It suits board games, card-driven strategy games, family games and boxed collector editions.

Tabletop games

Custom Board Game Boxes

✓Clear proofing before productionSee our process

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Box Style

Game Boxes

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Product features

Built around the job
01

Wrapped rigid lid and base

02

Inner trays for components

03

Title print on lid sides

04

Linen and matt finishes

05

Full-depth or shallow lid

06

Card wells sized for sleeves

07

Printed rules inside the lid

08

Room left for expansions

Specifications made for your product.

Technical snapshot

Every final specification is confirmed against product weight, packing method, print coverage, route, and order volume.

View artwork preparation guide
SKU
bm-1041
Dimensions
Custom-made around the product and packing workflow
Materials
Greyboard, Printed wrap paper, Card or moulded trays
Printing
CMYK, Pantone, white ink, or unprinted
Finishes
Matte, gloss, soft-touch, foil, embossing, spot UV
Quantities
Starting at 100 on selected configurations
Proofing
Dieline and digital proof

What changes the price.

Cost factors

Every project is quoted individually. These are the choices that move the price on almost every order.

Board thickness
Thicker greyboard gives a firmer box that resists dents, and costs more in board and in freight.
Inner trays
A plain card well is the simplest option. Custom trays with a cavity for each component take more tooling and more hand work.
Wrap and finish
Full-colour wrap paper is standard. Linen texture, spot gloss or foil on the lid each add a step.
Quantity
Wrapping, tooling and set-up are shared across the run, so the cost per box falls as the order grows.
Buyer guidance

Choosing this format

Two wrapped trays make a game box

A game box is two rigid trays, a base and a lid, each made from greyboard and wrapped in printed paper.

Each half starts as a flat piece of greyboard cut and scored into a tray. The corners are taped or stayed, then a sheet of printed paper is glued over the outside and folded over the top edge into the inside. The lid is made a little larger than the base so it slides down over it.

Because the box is made up rather than folded flat, it arrives ready to use and keeps its shape for years of play. That strength is the reason games use it: the box is opened and closed many times, stacked on shelves and carried to friends' houses.

  • Base and lid made as separate trays
  • Paper wrap folds over into the inside edge
  • Arrives made up, not flat

Greyboard, wrap paper and trays

Greyboard gives the strength, the wrap paper carries the art, and the tray decides how well the game packs away.

Greyboard for game boxes is commonly in the 1.5-2.5mm range. Thinner board keeps the weight down for small games; thicker board stops a heavy box from bowing in the middle of the lid when other games sit on top of it.

The inner tray can be a simple card well that holds the board flat with the bits in a space below, a set of card dividers, or a vacuum-formed or moulded tray with a cavity for each type of piece. A fitted tray looks tidy and stops pieces mixing, but it has to be drawn around the final components, so it is best left until they are fixed.

Sizing around the board and the bits

The folded board sets the footprint, and the components set the depth.

Start with the game board folded to its final size, then add a few millimetres of clearance on each side so it drops in and lifts out without catching. The rulebook usually sits on top, so it should be the same size as the folded board or a little smaller.

Depth comes from what sits under the board: trays, card decks, tokens, dice and any figures. Measure the tallest stack and allow some air, because a lid that has to be forced down over a full tray will split its corners. Send us every final component before the size is settled, as a late change can mean a new tray and a new box.

  • Footprint: folded board plus clearance
  • Depth: tallest stack of components
  • Fix components before sizing the tray

Rigid set-up box or tuck-end carton?

A small card game can live in a tuck-end carton. A game with a board and many pieces needs a rigid box.

A tuck-end carton is printed folding board, cheap to make and ships flat. It suits a single deck of cards or a small filler game where the box is light and is not opened and stacked for years.

A rigid set-up box costs more and takes more space in transit because it travels made up, but it survives repeated play, holds a heavy board without sagging and stacks on a shelf. For anything sold as a full board game, players expect the rigid box and judge the game partly by it.

Printing the lid and sides

The wrap paper is printed flat and folded round the edges, so the art needs extra room to turn in.

Artwork for a wrapped box extends past the visible faces, round the edges and into the inside of the lid, so we add a turn-in allowance on every side of the dieline. Keep text and key details away from the edges, where the paper bends and can shift slightly.

Games are stored stacked, so the long side of the lid often shows more than the top. Putting the title, player count and play time on the sides helps on a shop shelf and at home. A linen-textured or matt laminated paper resists scuffs from being slid in and out of a pile, which is why it is common on games.

  • Allow for the turn-in round each edge
  • Title and player count on the lid sides
  • Textured or matt finishes hide scuffs

Game box alone or inside a mailer?

A rigid game box is the right pick for the shop shelf and the games cupboard. A mailer around it is the right pick for the trip to a player's door.

The corners of a wrapped box dent and the wrap scuffs if it travels bare, so games sent by post need an outer mailer box or shipper sized closely to the game. A snug fit stops the game box sliding about and knocking its corners inside the outer.

Games for young children often carry age warnings or safety marks, so we leave room for the information your game must carry and lay it out on the proof. The packaging itself should avoid small loose parts that could come away.

Questions about game boxes.

Box style FAQs

We’ll confirm the exact details that apply to your structure and volume.

Read all frequently asked questions
Should a game box have a full-depth lid or a shallower one?+

We make both. A full-depth lid covers the whole base, which gives a stronger box for stacking because both walls carry the load. A shallower lid is easier to lift off and shows part of the base, which we then wrap and print too. Many board games use a deep lid that stops just short of the table, leaving a small finger gap, and that is what we recommend for retail.

Can the box leave room for sleeved cards and expansions?+

Yes, and we recommend deciding before the insert is drawn, because it sets the box depth. Many players put cards in protective sleeves, which make a deck noticeably thicker, so we can size the card wells for sleeved decks. If expansions are planned, we leave space in the base so players keep everything in one box. Our die cut inserts hold each part in place.

Can the lid of a game box have a special finish?+

Yes. We can add foiling to the title, embossing to raise the logo, or spot UV to make the cover art shine. A matte or gloss lamination protects the lid from scuffs as it is handled. Games are opened, stacked and carried again and again, so we recommend a protective finish on every game box lid.

Can the inside of the lid and base be printed?+

Yes. We line the inside with a separate printed sheet, which can carry artwork, a set-up diagram or a quick rules summary. Players see it every time they open the box, so it is a useful place for information they need during set-up. We print it alongside the outer wrap, so the inside and outside match.

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